Newlook 6217 – version 2

One of the things that’s been missing in my life for many years is the time to regularly sew for myself. This isn’t a bad thing.  It’s just that life has been full of too many other things to allow me the time and brain space to as creative with fabric as I’d like.

But as the kids get older, and I shed obligations that no longer work with our life, I’m hoping to change the sewing situation.

I’ll have to admit that there’s one other thing that’s kept me from sewing quite as much as I’d like, and that is fit.

I’m have not yet mastered fitting myself.  This isn’t just down to time, I think it’s also due to my ridiculously fluctuating weight over the past few years.  I think I just have to acknowledge that this may continue for a while and embrace the need to carry out alterations or pass clothes on.

It became very clear to me recently in my adventures with Newlook 6217 that I still don’t have a clear plan of what I need to do to a pattern to get a half decent fit without multiple toiles.

This top is so, so simple to make.  Two pieces. Four seams. Five hems.  Nothing to it.

But as with all simple garments, fit is key as it has nowhere to hide.

My original unblogged version of this had been worn to rags, but had needed a little more room in the bust and a little less in the neck.  It had also needed the shoulder and side seams shifting.

So I carried out the changes (thankfully I’d noted these down!) and now have the side seam exactly where I want it.  The black line helps you see it, as it’s well hidden in the fabric pattern.  I know it looks odd but that’s due to me carrying all my excess weight to my front.

It does look like I need a small sway back adjustment in the photo, but I’m sure that’s the way I’m holding my arm up to take an iPhone photo.  I’m going to monitor that situation with future makes as in real life it doesn’t look as pronounced.

So I’m happy with that.

Having moved the shoulders, I’m still not happy.

The seam is still rolling to the front.  I have appalling posture.  Thank goodness I’ve got a yoga teacher coming next week!

Ok…on a top like this it’s easy to adjust the shoulder, so, I’ve done another seam adjustment for the next iteration.

I added another 1″ to the FBA.  I didn’t want to add a dart to this top so I followed the instructions for the Y-shaped FBA in Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern.  I removed the sleeve portion of the pattern before doing the alteration and it worked a treat.

As I’ve added a significant FBA to this top (a total of 6″), I’ve got some pooling above the bust.

I’ve pinched this out into wee darts to make this top wearable, and I’ve transferred this to the pattern.

I promise I’ve sewn them more evenly!

This second iteration is still very wearable.

Even with the fit flaws its still better than anything that I would buy off the shelf.  And because of the FBA it fits around the bust but flatters across the tummy, rather than having too much fabric swimming about there.

The other joy is having a top that fits at hip level and actually covers the bits I want it to.  At 5ft 7ins I have such trouble with RTW tops hitting too high and rising up in wear.  This doesn’t do that!

I have another version cut out and ready to sew.  It’s a knit fabric this time, which is really not the greatest idea when you’re perfecting fit, but was top of the fabric tub.  I’ve also got another length of fabric washed and ready to go which will, hopefully, be the last wearable muslin to get me to my first Tried And Tested pattern.

Project notes

Pattern:                                                                    Newlook 6217

Fabric:                                                                     Soft cotton lawn.

Colourway:                                                             Navy/taupe

Purchased from:                                                     Preston market

Total  cost:                                                               £4

Similar fabric can be found here:                        Croft Mill Fabrics*

*This is more spendy!

Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links.  If you click through and make a  purchase, I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you!  I only recommend goods or services that I am happy to use myself.


13 Responses to Newlook 6217 – version 2

  1. Lorraine says:

    Your new top looks lovely & I think you’ve cracked the fit…. I DO know what you mean about sewing & fitting to yourself…I too have similar dilemmas but u kno what I’m so encouraged to sew for myself now & stop putting obstacles in the way..I’m not an easy fit shape by any way & only 4’9” tall (small) so RTW are never right & always have to customise the fit, so why not make my own…thanks for the tips…keep sewing lovely lady x

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      Thank you. Just a shoulder tweak and I’m there.

      I think the problem we have is that we are so brainwashed by fast fashion RTW into thinking that we are the problem, when, in fact, the problem is that RTW is standardised. I only know one person who has little trouble buying RTW and, even then, I’ve just shorted the sleeves on a coat for her.

      Sewing for yourself is absolutely the way forward. I’m sick of going shopping and coming home feeling awful about myself. Or buying stuff that fits, after a fashion, but has no longevity due to the poor quality of fabric and construction.

      And one final word. Button is the smallest girl in her class by far. We always tell her that the most beautiful things come in small packages, as anyone who has received a box from Tiffany’s will know!

      Happy sewing!

  2. K-Line says:

    Lovely photo of you Evie! And I love your use of the phrase “shedding obligations”. That’s so how it is…

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      Thank you.

      “shedding obligations” was the only way I could think to describe it. I recognised that something had to give before I did, so I’m learning to be a better curator of my time, and be default, that of the family. We are too busy and it has to change!

  3. You’re so close to nailing the fit of a very versatile top! I love this version and can’t wait to see your next one!

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      I’m wearing version 3.0 as I type and it’s lovely. I think I know exactly what is needed now and then I’m done. I’m planning to pull every fabric out of the stash that will work for this pattern and sew as many as I can.

  4. It looks great on you! We’re so similar in terms of the fitting issues we face. I always have to do a FBA then end up with a gaping neck, but I’ve discovered that I like little planning, arsenal or gathers at the neck!

  5. What the heck…auto correct! All I meant to say is that I like pleats and gathers at the neck 😀

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      Got to love auto correct! 😉

      Little gathers would have worked wonders. Wished I’d thought of that at the time. Thankfully the little pleats I’ve sewn are lost in the pattern and what you can see of them looks like a deliberate “design feature”!

  6. Tialys says:

    You have more patience than me perfecting fit – I rarely make a muslin unless it’s a style I haven’t made before or very expensive fabric. Very risky!!
    Your top looks very good and your hair looks very pretty too!

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      Ah! But you have such a lovely figure with fewer lumps and bumps to work around!

      Thank you for the comment about the hair. I’m growing out the grey (this is the last lot of colour I’ll apply and it’s so nearly my natural shade now) and trying to embrace the natural curl. It feels very different!

  7. I completely agree with what you said about RTW. I almost never venture to the shops any more – far too depressing – and the fabrics are awful. At last if you take the time to make something fit beautifully when you sew it will last a lot longer. The fit on your top is lovely. How timely to be sewing TNTs as Sewcialists’ TNT month is coming up. They would be a great thing to have in a sewing repertoire. 🙂 Xx

    • Pendle Stitches says:

      Oh I loathe clothes shopping with such a passion. One day I will make all my clothes, including bras and pants. One day!